The value of authenticity in Donostia

“From May to the film festival in September, we have many international visitors who appreciate our selection of oysters, but who also want to taste some local dishes,” says Goiko. “On the other hand, the rest of the year we have a loyal clientele of locals who order their all-time favorites: white beans from Tolosa, fine red bream, horse mackerel, or a T-bone steak.” When we ask Goiko about innovation in Basque cuisine, he replies that it undoubtedly has its following, but that many people seem to be returning to the tried-and-true values: simple preparation that allows you to fully appreciate the flavor of the best natural ingredients.

“Kata4 also changes throughout the day,” adds Goiko. “We open up at 7:30 a.m., and many lawyers and businesspeople from the neighborhood come to have a cup of coffee and start their day in a familiar place where they feel comfortable. By mid-morning, some come back and others step in to have a few pintxos; we usually have about 8 to 10 pintxos on the counter and then another 10 or 15 in the kitchen, which aren’t set out on display but can be ordered. Many of these appetizers can also be served as a small portion or as a full dish.” Throughout the day, some guests stay for lunch, some stop by in the afternoon for a glass of wine, others have their evening meal… and, needless to say, some may stay on for an after-dinner drink in good company. “The point is that people have a good time,” says Goiko; “we want them to feel at home in a relaxed setting, trusting that whatever they order won’t let them down.”

This relaxed atmosphere beyond the counter is by no means incompatible with a highly discriminating approach inside the kitchen. Nor does its passion for the best ingredients stop Kata4 from including some truly elaborate dishes in its menu. Although Basque cuisine prevails, the cooking team boasts members from several different countries, such as Australia, Peru, and Italy: you can enjoy anything from marvelous baby squid to an unforgettable ceviche. And if to all of this you add seasonal, locally-sourced products, you end up with dishes such as an organic Basque free-range chicken egg cooked at a low temperature with mushrooms, foie and Italian truffle: the best of all worlds.

Wines also have their place in Goiko’s venue: he recently decided to set up a wine corner where he now offers five or six new wines every month to explore different varieties beyond his standard wine list: California, New Zealand, Australia, Albariño, Penedès… whatever he has been drawn to recently and is eager to share with his clientele.

Juan Ramón Goikoetxea is a bulthaup customer. Delighted with the open kitchen Íñigo Axpe designed for him and his wife Laura, he explains: “We enjoy getting together in the kitchen, having a glass of wine and chatting with our friends in a space where we all feel at home. Íñigo is an outstanding professional with a great sense of design, who also knows how to listen to his customers’ needs.” We ask him whether he enjoys cooking in his bulthaup kitchen. “Actually, that’s Laura’s turf,” he laughs. “Where I really cook is in my sociedad gastronómica, the gastronomy club I share with my friends in Zarauz. The sociedad with the best views in the entire Basque Country,” he beams, faithful to his long-standing values, to what lives on despite all the changes in its surroundings.

Photographer: Pablo Axpe